fredag 30 september 2011

Chanel Spring 2012

I have always thought that Chanel is the epotimy of femininity and they definitely stick to their guns. This can be seen in pieces from the spring collection for 2012. It is girly yet elegant. I think it is many women's dream to stroll down the streets of Paris decked out in Chanel in a state of romantic bliss.




Dreams are the stuff reality is made of.



//P.

torsdag 29 september 2011

Lanvin Spring 2012

When I saw these sweaters, above and below, from the coming spring collection for 2012 I was intrigued. I like when designers take a new approach to men's wear instead of running in the same tracks all the time. I instantly thought of Star Trek but that was probably because of the Spock like hairdo on the model below. I want the sweater above. Already now I'm planning my shopping months ahead of time.



Otherwise the collection has a very nerdy look, and I wonder who goes for that. At least not the ones who got labeled as nerds in high school.




//P.




Thierry Mugler Spring 2012

Thierry Mugler has been with us in the world of fashion for quite some time. Born in Strasbourg, France in 1948 and he early developed a passion for drawing. At the age of 24 he moved to Paris and started to design clothes. In 1973 he launched his first own collection and in 1978 a collection for men was brought to the world. In the 1980s Thierry Mugler reached international acclaim and carved himself a niche with his clothes that have futuristic elements and draw inspiration from science fiction.



The two above pictures are from his spring collection for 2012. Decidedly futuristic and beautifully crafted and tailored. Mugler always deliever a memorable show when he showcases his creations and that we love.


When it comes to the men's collection for 2012 I will perhaps not shower him with the same roses. Fantastic show but clothes that can a bit hard to wear even if you are on the brave side. I like the ensemble above to the right and mostly because of the hat with the feather. For some reason I like a touch of ethnic influence in clothes.


Otherwise I feel that the clothes are bit too colourful, even too colourful for me. I don't mind colour but I don't want to look like a cartoon character.







Even if I had the pecs and the abs to die for I wouldn't like to go out dressed like the two boys above. Eyecatching, yes. Tiltalating, maybe. Beautiful, no.



//P.










onsdag 28 september 2011

Armani

I have looked over some pieces from Armani's spring collection for 2012 and I find myself a bit dumbstruck. Doesn't happen very often, so take the time to enjoy it. To start with, the ensemble above, the top I find acceptable but baggy trousers a la 1930s and also short ones goes out the window as far as I'm concerned. If I'm to wear such trousers I need to get paid, and I won't do it cheaply.



I might not be the intended target group for the Armani label. I definitely don't have the economy for it but these things hurt my eyes. In the past I have always held Armani as the epitomy of elegance and classic simplicity but I suppose I have to dethrone him. The style where it seems like "Miami Vice" got tangled up with "V" and crashlanded in a paint shop is not working for me. It could be as simple as that I'm not loaded and I'm not twenty, and that I've lived through the 1980s and don't want to do it again.




The picture below is from the fall collection that is out now and if you want those sweaters you need to move into the gym and have the genetical ability to put on muscle mass quickly. I suppose the clothes are fine if you want to look like a Marvel Comic Superhero on a bad day.




//P.








Anthony Vaccarello 2012

Belgian designer, Anthony Vaccarello, who is based in Paris has shown a very sexy collection for spring 2012. Eyecatching and let's say mindblowing. Easily worn? Not a chance in hell. If you want to wear the dress above (if we now can call it a dress?) you have to be at the gym at least five times a week, go on a low carb diet and have the mother of all metabolisms. The garment is sexy and the model looks stunning but with this one Anthony Vaccarello has a very limited clientel, but that could be what he is aiming for.




When I look at this collection the first thing that springs to mind is Versace. The collection is very Versace. In a way i think it is quite reassuring that a designer can be become hugely successful even if the style is quite similar to someone elses. When it comes down to it, if the customers want it then everything is hunkydory. That will always be the deal breaker. If you dish out what the customers want to buy, you survive.




//P.




tisdag 27 september 2011

Soulsearching




A time for contemplation is always needed at stages in life. To apreciate the good things like the people you love. To revise the error of your ways, like treating yourself with no selfworth or lacking the convition to rid yourself of energy thieves, the people that for some reason treat you like yesterday's garbage. If you owe yourself anything it is the favour of standing proud of who you are and giving love where it is needed and only letting the people who have your best interests at heart into your life. That can sometimes be the hardest lesson to learn. That you are worth something and that the ones who take no consideration to you and your feelings (despite the fact that they profess to do so) are to be discarded.



Human relations are by far the toughest, and sometimes it is better to stand alone than to choose a path where you are chained to someone who cheapens your soul.


//P.

Christopher Kane 2011/2012

English designer, Christopher Kane's current collection is a delight. It is whimsical and eyecatching with references to handicraft, the 1920s and futurism. That seems to be the trend in a business where trends are made, that designers use a myriad of influences when creating clothes. The result can in some cases be quite muddled but I think that Christopher Kane has landed on the right side of the thin line between success and failure.



I got a feeling of sheer nostalgia when I saw the skirts above and below. My paternal grandmother used to make bedspreads in that technique. If she had been alive I wonder what she had said if she had seen women wearing that as clothes. I think she would have laughed long and hard.




//P.









måndag 26 september 2011

Harvey Nichols



Harvey Nichols, my favourite department store in the world, has launched a joint project with a handful of noted designers to produce one of kind wool handbags. They are made in support of The Campaign for Wool and are on an online auction that runs until september the 30th, link here. The proceeds will go to the Prince's Countryside Fund. More uinformation about The Campaign for Wool you can find here.


My personal favourite is the one from Smythson and then I love everything that you slap the names Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood on.



//P.

tisdag 20 september 2011

Ralph Lauren Spring 2012

Women of the world have lots to delight over next spring. At least if we take a look at what Ralph Lauren has presented to the market. Undertstaded, classic pieces with clear references to the 1920s. There are actually few things that are as sexy as a woman in a well tailored suit. Ralph Lauren has done good. We like! Very Much!







//P.



lördag 17 september 2011

Oscar Jacobson


This coming winter Swedish company Oscar Jacobson is launching a collection of smokings in two variants. Depending on lifestyle naturally but some of you will see this as a welcome addition to your wardrobe.


//P.

måndag 12 september 2011

Josefin Strid - Stockholm Fashion Week 2011

A few weeks ago my former student, Josefin Strid, showed her latest collection at Stockholm Fashion Week. Decidely colourful and she has a style of her own. I don't think that society has progressed that much when it comes to what is considered okay for a man to wear so the men who wear her clothes have a good portion of courage.









//P.



lördag 10 september 2011

Westwood Bag


I think I have forgotten to show you this. A Vivienne Westwood bag that I lay my eyes in Selridges in London. Cough up £500 and it's yours.


//P.

Lunch with Lars Wallin


Today I had lunch with Lars Wallin, supremely talented Swedish designer. He has a very international feel to his clothes and he plays in a league of his own in Sweden with his luxury dresses. A very nice man who is very easy to talk to.


//P.

torsdag 8 september 2011

Gucci Bag Fall 2011


A thing of beauty. A must have. An item to make others green of envy. An essential piece to the man's wardrobe. A bag that puts the G back in Gucci.



//P.

onsdag 7 september 2011

Caroline af Ugglas

Caroline af Ugglas is a Swedish singer and artist. I didn't think so much of her until last summer when I saw her live and fell for this unique creature. She is a real, live Pippi Longstocking. She has her own quirky style, her own way of doing things and she is who she is. What you see is what you get. I love her philosophy of life of being true to yourself, the equal value of all humans and that we should take care of life because in a sense it is short.


I met her this monday and got a healthy dose of her one of a kind energy.


//P.

tisdag 6 september 2011

Pringle of Scotland


This is an example from the spring 2012 collection for Pringle of Scotland. I like the colours and the graphic design of the slip over. I would prefer to wear it with a shirt underneath. I don't have the arms to pull it off wearing only the slip over. Then I wonder why they have to use near to death skinny sixteen year olds as models? Anyone who has a good answer? I don't know what to say about the knee lenght shorts at the moment. The jury is still out on that one.


//P.

måndag 5 september 2011

Lucent Dossier


When I watched a programme yesterday, Top Chef, Just Desserts, I came across Lucent Dossier. A circus and vaudeville act that is both modern and breathes of the end of the 19th century.

Apart from being a great circus act the clothes and the style are breath taking. It's beautiful, whimsical and magical. I feel so inspired when I see the pictures and I think all of us would benefit from wearing clothes like this from time to time and let imagination rule.




//P.

lördag 3 september 2011

Alfhild Külper

Keep an eye on Alfhild Küpler, BA graduate from Central St Martins this year. If the graduate show is any indication we have good things to come. Since I'm a sucker for blue I was sold from the get go.





//P.

fredag 2 september 2011

Givency Fall 2011

My attention was caught by this ensemble from Givenchy when I read ID Magazine. I like the skirt but then I have always liked strong prints. The top on the other hand I would like to throw in the nearest cinder. The 80s is back with a vengenance but having your bra on display like Madonna in her heyday is not really a viable option, at least not if it is style you are aiming for. If it is massive attention you want then go full throttle. I imagine the model in knee high, black boots with a considerable heel, a black and snug tailored jacket topped off with a black man's hat. Voila, we have a power woman.


The above image belong to the advertising campaign for Givenchy's fall collection 2011. Since the mid 1990s homoeroticism and lesbian chic have frequented the marketing of clothes quite regurlarily. Apparently it is still tantalizing even though we write 2011. If it now creates a stir and sells more clothes all the more power to you, but personally I risk falling asleep.

//P.

torsdag 1 september 2011

Tiger of Sweden, Fall 2011

Here are two pieces from Tiger of Sweden that can be found in shops at the moment. I like the colour and the pattern. They are made of 100 % wool and show proof of good tailoring. If you are going splash out about £300 on jacket it needs to be nicely tailored. If you want to add the pants that will be an extra £150. Personally I think that both jacket and trousers in this particular pattern will be a bit too much. I suppose it depends on the occasion you are going to wear it but if you are not impersonating the chair man of a British book club you can give this a miss. I would suggest you buy the jacket and mix it with a pair of chinos, either red or of a clear blue colour. No matter if you go with red or blue chinos combine with a light, light blue shirt, preferably from Eton Shirts, and finish the whole thing of with dark blue loafers.


//P.